Ensure the car is safely secured on ramps or jackstands before spending any time underneath it. Normally, low profile ramps provide sufficient clearance for work. Never, ever get under a car that's lifted with a jack.

Before you can reach the oil pan, you'll have to remove the plastic aerodynamic plate underneath the engine. It's attached by four 8mm screws - two in the very front, two in the very back. Before unscrewing them, take note of the approximate location of the bolt holes. It can be annoying to find them later.

The drain plug is located on the passenger side of the oil pan. It requires a 13mm socket to remove. Ensure the container you're using to catch the old oil is in position, and carefully unscrew the bolt. Once it's loose, it's best to finish unscrewing it by hand to make sure the bolt doesn't fall into the oil that's draining. Set it aside somewhere safe and out of the way where you won't forget it.

The oil will take a little while to completely drain - there's 8.5 quarts of it! If you want to be really thorough, you can raise the driver's side with a jackstand to ensure all the oil is being drained.

While waiting for the oil to drain, you can get to work replacing the filter. It's under the big cap just in front of the engine. Attach the cap wrench to a 3/8" drive ratchet and slowly unscrew the filter cap.

Once the filter assembly is free, give the oil some time to drip back into the housing before pulling it out completely. Have towels handy to catch any remaining oil as you lift it away.

Remove the old filter by pulling it straight off the end of the assembly. Once free, dispose of the filter responsibly and wipe down the assembly of old oil.

The filter assembly has four O-rings that need to be replaced in addition to the filter itself. Each is a different diameter along the length of the shaft. Use a pair of pliers or a flathead screwdriver to remove each O-ring. The first two are near the narrow tip of the assembly.

The third O-ring is about midway down the assembly...

... and the last one is on the end, near the cap. Note the groove the O-ring sits in; it's important the replacement fits in this same groove. If the O-ring is improperly seated, oil can spray from the filter housing while the engine is running!

Take the new filter and thread it onto the assembly. The Mann Filter has two black lines sewn onto the filter itself; ensure only one line is visible when the filter is seated! Twisting it clockwise as you thread it can help ensure it fits snugly within the cap. Don't be afraid to use a little force; it can be stubborn.

The box the filter came in contains four new O-rings and one spare. Open a bottle of new oil and use a little to lubricate each O-ring before threading it onto the assembly. Once the new filter assembly is ready, set it aside on a clean surface.

By this point, the oil pan should be mostly drained. You'll still see a few occasional drips, but that's okay. If you haven't already, wipe down the drain plug you set aside earlier. The copper crush washer can be disposed of, provided you have a new one - and that's always a good idea. You can see the difference between the old and new washers below.

Thread the new washer onto the drain plug and screw it back in by hand. Using a torque wrench, tighten the bolt to 22 lb-ft of torque. Don't over-tighten it too much, or you'll risk damaging the threads and annoying the next person who has to change your oil.

Now it's time to fill the engine with new oil. Instead of using the separate oil inlet, you can add the oil directly into the housing you removed the filter from - which is great, because it's a much bigger target. The engine's total oil capacity is 8.5 quarts: fill it with 8 quarts initially so you don't overdo it.

With the new oil added, you're ready to button up the car. Re-insert the filter assembly into the housing and, using a torque wrench and the filter cap, tighten it to 18 lb-ft of torque.

Before buttoning up down below, run the engine for several minutes to ensure no oil is leaking from the filter housing or drain plug. Because of the plate on the underside, leaking oil won't be readily visible once it's installed.

If you're done working underneath the car, it's time to reinstall the aerodynamic plate you removed at the beginning. We found it easier to align each screw with its associated hole before tightening them.