Before the car is off the ground, be sure to use the breaker bar to loosen (but DO NOT REMOVE) the lug nuts on the rear wheels.

Place the jack under the rear torsion beam (for FWD) or differential (for AWD) and gently raise the car until your jack stands can be placed under the pinch welds on each side.

Once both jack stands are in position and aligned, gently lower the car onto them. If the wheels are still in contact with the ground, you may have to further raise the car, adjust the height of the jack stands, and lower it back down onto them again.

Remove the lug nuts and pull each wheel off the wheel hubs and roll them out of the way.

Before you begin the bleeding process, raise the hood of the car and open the cap of the brake fluid reservoir. The reservoir is located on the driver-side of the engine and just behind the battery.

Because of the length of the neck of the reservoir, we found it wasn't really feasible to preemptively drain the fluid. Instead, just ensure it's sufficiently topped off (you can fill beyond the MAX line, until it reaches the neck) by adding new brake fluid as necessary.

The rear bleeder valve is located on the inboard side of the caliper, facing the rear of the car. Pull the rubber nub off the tip and thread the 8mm end of the bleeder wrench over the bleeder valve. Then take the end of the tubing from the bleeder bottle and thread it over the end of the valve nipple. Ensure the tubing is snug!

Now you're ready to bleed the brakes! Have your assistant sit in the driver's seat and coordinate opening/closing the bleeder valve with them depressing the brake pedal. You should work in the following sequence:

• Open the bleeder valve (you only need about a 30 degree turn)
• Your assistant depresses the brake pedal as far as they can
• Close the bleeder valve
• Your assistant releases the brake pedal (they may have to use their foot to fully extend the pedal back up)

Vocal communication is key! We found simply telling the assistant when to press/release the pedal was clear and concise.

Don't forget to top off new brake fluid in the reservoir periodically - usually after about 5-8 pumps of the pedal. If you let the fluid get too low you risk air entering the brake lines, which undermines everything you're doing and can be a major safety hazard.

Eventually the fluid leaving the bleeder valve will turn clearer, a sign that new brake fluid has made its way all the way to the caliper. Once the fluid is clearer and free of air bubbles, close and tighten the valve and carefully remove the bleeder hose.

Repeat this process for the other rear wheel.

Before you lift the front, make sure you use the breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels. Again - you just want to loosen them, don't remove them!

Once again you can use your preferred method to raise the front of the car to position your jack stands. We found lifting by the front cross-member worked, and is an indicated jack point in the owner's manual.

Once the front of the car is on jack stands, remove the wheels using the same method as the rears.

Repeat the bleed process for the front brakes. The only difference is the size of the bleeder valve - 10mm instead of 8mm. The fluid leaving the bleeder valve will clear up much faster, since you're much closer to the brake fluid reservoir.

On the final wheel, pay special attention to the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Ensure the fluid is at the MAX line, or just below it, when you've finished the last of the four wheels.

Once the bleeder valves are closed and tightened, reinstall the front wheels and tighten the lug nuts with an impact wrench or socket wrench, but don't go too crazy. Raise the front again and remove the jack stands, then lower the car and finish tightening the lug nuts to 80 lb-ft.