Change The Oil on a 68 Mustang
Even classic cars need oil changes, and ones that haven't been used in a while can definitely use a good oil change to get them back into working order. Today, we're going to focus on the 1968 Mustang. Here’s everything you need to change the oil on this classic pony car.
- • A socket and a socket wrench
- • An oil filter wrench
- • A drain pan to catch the used oil
- • A jack and jack stands or a lift to get the car off the ground
- • Gloves
- • A new oil filter
- • Oil
How To Do It
Changing your oil is one of the easiest things you can do on your car, so you don't need much to get you started. One thing to remember is that you should never get under your car if it's just up on a jack. <a Always use a jack stand or a lift to ensure there's no risk of the car falling on you when you're under it.
The type of oil you use is up to you. The original manual for the ‘68 Mustang recommended 10w30 oil for cars in cool climates and 10w40 for cars being driven in warmer places. Many people now recommend Mobil 1 15w50 because it contains enough ZDDP, which is good for the flat tappet engine that powered the classic Mustang.
Now that you've got all your tools and parts together, it's time to get down to business.
Step 1: Make sure you have somewhere safe to work on your car. A driveway is fine, but a secure garage or carport is better because it protects both you and the car while you're changing the oil. If you have a classic car like a '68 Mustang, you're going to want something insulated to keep it safer.
Step 2: Lift the car. Again, make sure you put the car up on jack stands once it's off the ground to ensure you're safe while you're changing the oil.
Step 3: Remove the oil cap on the top of the engine. This makes it easier for the used oil to flow out of the drain pan.
Step 4: Position the drain pan and remove the oil drain plug. Make sure the pan is in place to catch the used oil, and don't lose the drain plug in the pan. Wait until the oil has stopped draining before replacing the plug. Tighten the drain plug finger tight before turning it another one-eighth turn with your socket wrench. Don't overtighten it or it could lead to leaks.
Step 5: Remove the old oil filter. You shouldn't need the catch pan for this, but you might want to keep it nearby just in case. Use your oil filter wrench to turn the old filter counterclockwise until you can spin it by hand to remove it. Make sure the oil filter's old gasket is still attached to it — leaving it on the engine can cause the new filter to leak.
Step 6: Lubricate the new gasket slightly with a little bit of fresh oil before screwing it into place. Tighten the new filter as much as you can by hand, then snug it up with the oil filter wrench.
Step 7: Your final step is to refill your engine with fresh oil. Check your drain plug and oil filter for obvious leaks and replace the oil cap.
That's all there is to it — you're done! Turn the engine over, check for leaks again and take it out for a drive. Don't forget to mark the mileage so you remember to change it again in another 5,000-10,000 miles.