Change The Oil on a Nissan Juke
Changing the oil on your Juke is a critical part of your regular maintenance routine, and a vital part of keeping your engine and turbo healthy. The service manual for the Juke recommends changing your engine oil every 5,000 miles.
Luckily, changing the oil yourself is relatively fast and easy, even for someone who's never been under a car before. The following guide will help you every step of the way.
- Oil Filter Wrench (14 flutes, 65-67mm diameter)
- Ratchet Set with a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive, plus an optional breaker bar
- Torque wrench with a 3/8" drive
- Oil catch pan
- Oil fill funnel
- Latex or nitrile gloves and plenty of paper towels or shop rags
- Hydraulic Jack and Jack Stands
Special Notes on Oil Weight and Filter
Concerning the weight of synthetic oil:
2011-2014 model year Jukes should use 5W-30 weight synthetic oil.
2015-2018 model year Jukes should use 0W-20 weight, except for the Nismo RS, which requires 5W-30. (All model years of the Nismo RS use the first generation MR16DDT engine)
In a pinch, all model years can use 5W-30 weight oil.
Concerning the oil filter:
The official filter for the Juke is the 15208-65F0E, instead of the 15208-9E01A listed above. However, the 9E01A filter is identical, except for being a little taller. The 9E01A will not protrude beyond the subframe and is a perfectly viable alternative.
Concerning the crush washer for the drain plug:
The Genuine Nissan brand filters, as linked above, include a new copper crush washer with the filter. If you purchase a filter from a different brand, you may have to supply the new crush washer yourself.
Get Started by Lifting the Car
To start with, you'll have to lift the front of the car to better access the drain plug and filter. I recommend using a jack and jack stands, but ramps will work in a pinch. Whatever you do, never work under a car that's only supported by the jack.
Lifting the front of the car is a cinch. You can raise the car using the front-center jack point, as illustrated in the service manual. This is located on the front cross-member, behind the oil pan. It's a good idea to chock the rear wheels to make sure the car doesn't roll.
Here's another view of the cross-member:
Drain the Oil
It's probably a good idea to loosen the oil fill cap at the top of the engine before draining the old oil. That way you won't have an oil-less engine if the cap proves difficult to remove. The cap is at the very center of the engine with an oil can symbol on it. Removing the decorative cover on the engine can help give you a better grip to remove it. The cover just snaps off.
The oil pan is a black metal housing near the front of the engine, and the drain plug is located on the rear-facing side of the pan. Make sure you get a feel for its location before you begin.
It's easiest to loosen the drain plug before placing the drain pan in position and removing it completely. Use a breaker bar with the 14mm socket to begin to loosen the drain plug. Bear in mind the plug will be facing away from you, so make sure you're loosening it, not tightening it further!
Place the oil pan in position near the drain plug - remember the plug is at an angle, so the oil is going to stream further than you might expect. Position it a little bit further towards the rear of the vehicle so it catches the old oil. When you're ready, carefully loosen and remove the drain plug. This will be difficult to do without getting your fingers covered in (likely hot) engine oil, so use a paper towel to grip the plug if you need to.
Wait 5-10 minutes for the oil to drain completely. It'll steadily drip for quite a while before stopping.
Once the oil is done dripping (or nearly done), use a paper towel or shop cloth to clean the area where the plug will sit. You want to make sure it's free from foreign debris so the plug has a good seal.
Prepare the drain plug and crush washer. If you're reusing the old drain plug, make sure you clean it of old oil thoroughly and remove the old crush washer. Thread your new crush washer on the drain plug to prepare it for use.
The copper crush washers that come with Genuine Nissan filters have a smaller side with an indentation and a larger, flat side. Thread the washer with the smaller side facing towards the oil pan and the flat side facing the drain plug.
Thread the drain plug back onto the oil pan and tighten it just enough to keep any more oil from coming out. Use your towel or shop cloth to clean the surface of the pan one last time, then tighten the drain plug by hand.
Then, use the torque wrench and 14mm socket to tighten the drain plug to 25 ft-lb.
Replace the Filter
The filter is located on the front-facing side of the oil pan. It's a cylindrical cartridge poking out between the oil pan and sub-frame.
Use the breaker bar and filter wrench to loosen the oil filter. Place the oil pan in position directly underneath - a decent amount of oil will drain out with the filter as its removed. Be careful, as it will likely get all over your fingers again, and could be quite hot. Carefully remove the filter and drain it of old oil.
Unwrap your new filter and fill it with a small amount (perhaps a tablespoons' worth) of new oil. Swish the oil around carefully and use a drop or two to lubricate the rubber O-ring on the mating surface of the filter.
Here's a side-by-side comparison of the old and new filters. Note the old filter was the 65F0E type, and the new filter is the 9E01A. Note the O-ring gasket of the new filter has been lubricated.
Clean the socket and surrounding area where the filter will sit flush with the engine. You want to make sure this surface is as clean as possible to prevent leaking.
Install the new filter by threading it onto the socket, shown above. Once flush with the surface, you can hand-tighten it 2/3 of a turn, or use your torque wrench and filter wrench and torque it to 13 ft-lb.
Fill with New Oil
Fully remove the oil fill cap atop the engine and, using the funnel, carefully begin to fill the engine with new oil.
With a filter change, the oil capacity of the Juke's engine is approximately 4 3/8 quarts. I found it best to fill about 3 1/2 quarts of oil, then check the dip stick. The dip stick is removed by pulling on the yellow handle near the front-left of the engine. Clean it off and re-insert it to get an accurate measurement.
Continue to top off the oil, if necessary, and re-check the dip stick frequently. You want to aim for a little under the "H" line on the dip stick. Once at the right level, replace the fill cap and hand-tighten it, and replace the engine cover if you removed it.
Start the engine and have an assistant check for leaks at the drain plug and filter, or step out of the car and do it yourself. Let the engine run for a minute or two and ensure the plug and filter remain dry and clear of oil.
Lower the car back to the ground by jacking it up, removing the jack stands, and carefully lowering it back down.
Re-check the oil level and check once more for leaks.
You're done! Go out there and enjoy your Juke. Don't forget to take a note of your current mileage so you can be sure to replace the oil after 5,000 miles.
How to Get Rid of Your Old Oil
Your local auto parts store will take your old oil as long as you don't mix it with any other fluids.
- Oil drain plug: M12 x 1.25. Requires a 14mm socket. Tighten to 25 ft-lb of torque.
- Oil filter: 15208-9E01A or 15208-65F0E. Remove with a filter cap wrench with 14 flutes and a 65-67mm diameter. Hand-tighten or tighten to 13 ft-lb using a torque wrench.
- The Juke's oil capacity is approximately 4 3/8 quarts of oil.