With the car on the ground go ahead and loosen the wheel lugs on both sides. You don't need to remove these - just break them free.

Find the lift point on the rear differential

Jack up the car using the rear lift point

Lower the car on jack-stands at the side jack points

For reference, the side rail jack points are where additional material has been added.

Remove the lug nuts and take the wheel off.

If you have the emergency brake engaged release it. The emergency brake will prevent you from removing the calipers.

The brake pads are held in place by the caliper body and the caliper body is held in place by two bolts, which you'll need to remove next.

Using a 17mm to hold the bolt closest to you use a 12mm socket wrench (or open wrench) to loosen the top bolt

And remove the top bolt.

Do the same procedure with the bottom bolt, however you may need to use a 12mm open wrench instead of your socket wrench as the workable area is tight

Now with some force wiggle the caliper body away from the brake

The caliper is heavy and you don't want it to hang, so rest it somewhere behind the brake where it can sit safely.

With the caliper out of the way simply take out the old pads.

You'll now want to remove the top and bottom caliper pins. These are fitted around a rubber boot - you'll want to be careful not to tear the rubber. Compress the boot to unseat it from the pin, then slowly rotate the pin out.

Wipe both pins clean and apply new grease

Slide the pins back in

Next, you'll need to compress the piston to be able to slide the caliper back on with the larger brand new pads. Compressing the piston will drive brake fluid back through the system. To avoid that you can attach a hose the the bleed screw and let fluid exit here, which is what we have done. This will require bleeding the brakes after. (If you'd like to avoid that you can instead open the brake master cylinder, however you'll want to keep an eye that you don't overflow brake fluid from the cylinder.)

Remove the rubber cap on the bleed screw

Attach your house around the bleed screw, then use your 10mm wrench to loosen it.

One more thing - compressing the piston requires a bit of force. After some trial and error we found that reattaching the caliper body with one bolt allowed us to rotate the caliper and gave us enough room to work while keeping the caliper steady. Here's an example:

If you'd like, go ahead and reattach the caliper with one bolt as shown above.

Attach a 3/8" drive extension into your socket wrench, then (with no socket attached) fit the extension into the middle of the "+" shape and rotate clockwise. This will slowly compress the piston, but it requires force so be patient. This should also slowly drive fluid out of the bleed screw.

You'll continue to compress the piston until it sits flush and the grooves are aligned to the caliper. That's because the brake pads have a raised nub which slides into the piston groove.

Once compressed, close the brake bleed screw (10mm)

The new pads should slide in as shown. The pad with a large metal tab should be put in the side nearest to the car with the tab on top.

Slide the caliper back into place, reattach the other bolt and tighten both. You may need to press the caliper towards you to get both bolts seated into the caliper pins that they screw into.

Repeat the procedure above (starting at "Remove Caliper Body") for the other side of the car

Put your wheel back on and tighten lug nuts (tighten in a star pattern rather than sequentially).

Lower car, then give your lug nuts a final tightening

If you did use the bleed technique you'll want to bleed your brakes.